Fitting Solutions
The commercial pattern is a template that has been drafted to fit what is believed to be a standard size. In truth, there is nothing very standard about it. The majority of women will want to make some alteration to make the pattern conform to her individual needs
To make the job easier and efficient, use medical roll paper and glue stick. I prefer glue stick to tape as it can be ironed over. Glue stick comes in permanent and restickable. The restickable holds up just fine for our purposes and makes it much easier to amend alterations.
A Few Common Fit Problems
- Full Bust
On most commercial sewing patterns this is bra size greater than a B cup.
Each cup size greater than a B increases the fabric required by 3/8 to 1/2 inch in both length and width at the level of the bust (per cup size). Increasing for a full bust will prevent the strain and pulling up at the bodice front usually seen in ready to wear. -
Dowager Curve
Upper back which is rounded more than average at the base of the neck.
Frequently seen with a forward head. The center back length will be increased in the region of the upper back. - Sway Back
Postural variation in the normal curvature of the lower back results in excessive length in the center back.
Center back hangs lower at the hem. Side seams kick forward at the hem line. On jackets and tops excess fabric bunches up at the small of the back.